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Here are some of the questions that visitors have asked, and our answers.

From: Cindy
Country: United States
Subject: Moving Basement Stairs

Q: We want to move our stairs -- they're in our kitchen right now and we want to put them in the hallway where the washer and dryer are and put the washer and dryer in the utility room in the basement.

I called a contractor yesterday. Is that going to be expensive? And how expensive? There's a hall closet in the front room and I thought that would be the way down.
Gina's Answer

Hi Cindy,

If you read the page where I describe moving my basement stairs -- it's here: http://www.my-green-home-project.com/stair-remodeling.html -- scroll down to "How Much Did It Cost" -- you will see how much I paid for this work, which involved demolishing some old stairs to the second floor as well as the old basement stairs, not all of which may be required in your case.

It was a few years ago but it should give you an idea of the amount of work and expense involved; if you look at the photos you will see just how much construction.

If you can, get several estimates and be sure to sign a contract that describes everything, as well as a deadline for finishing the job. Unless they are local people that you know well, you should also check the contractors' references.

Good luck!

Gina

From: David
Country: United States
Subject: Starting a Green Building Business

Q: I am living in Fayetteville, Arkansas. I am 31 and want to start a business retro-fitting existing homes to make them more energy efficient.

I want to change building codes to make newly constructed buildings have mandatory green guidelines! I am just starting to research this field I am pursuing, and I want to thank you for this website & info.

If you feel compelled I would appreciate any info or businesses that will aid me in my life's work! Thank you & GodBless!

Gina's Answer
Hi David,

I'm happy that you enjoyed my website, but I live in a totally different climate (Atlantic Canada), so I cannot recommend any businesses that would be useful to you where you live.

As for online help, I'm sure that your research will turn up many helpful sites. You could start with the US Green Building Council Site: http://www.usgbc.org/

Good luck with your project!

Gina

From: Bannon
Country: Canada
Subject: Dirt Crawl Space

Q: Hey! Just wanted to compliment you on your site! I'm a new, first time homeowner with a dirt crawlspace and have searched for hours on how to set it up. Living here in Montreal and the conditions aren't easy on a house and this site sure helped to answer some questions.

Thank you for displaying your work and experience!

Gina's Answer
Hi Bannon,

Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm from Montreal and I know those crawlspaces -- not fun! I'm glad I was able to help and if you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer them to the best of my abilities.

Good luck in your homeowner adventure!

Gina

From: Brian
Country: Canada
Subject: Solar Energy, Metal Roof

Q: Very well documented and I appreciate the work and effort you have put into this.

I am presently in the planning stages of a green as can be remodel, similar to yours in size but I'll be reclaiming the attic.

I'm considering solar (tied to the grid) and am curious if you can recommend any made in Canada systems? I looked at wind but it is way out there in cost.

Second, I see the before photos of the house with a shingle roof but the after photos have a metal roof...I'm also looking at a metal roof - how did you find the cost versus ashphalt? Did you consider roof colour for any energy savings?

Thanks, Brian

Gina's Answer
Dear Brian,

Thank you for your kind comments.

Regarding your solar energy system, because I knew from the start that I couldn't afford it, I never looked into the Canadian suppliers. You are right to be very careful; from what I've read there are huge variations.  

Depending on where you are, there might be a Permaculture group nearby, or an ecovillage: they tend to go solar and love to share their expertise. Find a Permaculture forum and see if they are discussing that topic. I would start there if I were looking for friendly, objective advice.

I chose a steel roof because asphalt is far from green and makes it impossible to collect rainwater for home use. Metal roofs are more expensive, but if properly installed they last much longer. And there's the rub! I haven't put up my roofing pages yet because after all these years I haven't gotten over the heartache. I had to have it done twice: the first contractor was an incompetent crook and the second one was very expensive but I was desperate. I'm still not 100% satisfied. I'm sorry I didn't do more research beforehand. 

My advice would be this:

1. Talk to the manufacturer and get their documentation. They might recommend a roofer in your area.
  2. Get an estimate that lists every single piece of material and accessory that will be used and included in the price, with materials and labour listed separately. Compare that to the manufacturer's price list and installation instructions. (That estimate will be very useful even if you decide to do it yourself.)
3. Make sure the contract is air-tight and contains every step that will be carried out.
4. The contract must have a deadline.
5. Down payment should be as small as possible, preferably just the cost of materials.
6. Document everything in photos. 

My own steel roof is green because I thought it was logical to use that colour for something called "My Green Home Project". And it sort of blends into the landscape. In addition, I don't like the look of very light roofs, and a very dark roof would absorb too much heat in summer. You should keep that in mind if you're planning on using the attic; attics tend to get very hot in summer without any help from a dark roof! 

I'll be happy to answer any further questions you may have.

Good luck with your project!

Gina

From: Marie
Country: United States
Subject: Foil Insulation In Sunroom

Q: We live in upstate NY and are adding a sunroom to our house, made from a kit. We are using a product called Prodex which is a brand of foil insulation, for the vapor barrier.

We are at the stage now where the ceiling and walls are insulated and the Prodex is installed on the ceiling only, not the walls. Windows are not yet installed.

Should we fit the Prodex up to the rough opening for windows before windows go in, or put windows in first and then fit the Prodex up to the window frame?

Thanks for all the info on this site, it is very thorough.

Gina's Answer
Dear Marie,

I would suggest you contact the technical support of both the sunroom kit manufacturer AND the foil insulation manufacturer for assistance with that question.

I have often contacted manufacturers' technical people and have always received excellent advice from them. Sometimes they will even send a technical rep to your site for a free consultation.

Good luck with your project!

Gina

From: Dave
Country: Pennsylvania, United States
Subject: Installing Kitchen Cabinets Over Foil Insulation

Q: I contacted you before about the insulation of your kitchen and the bubble wrap.

I was curious about how you mounted cabinets... since you did horizontal furring strips, did you mount the cabinets to the studs, or to the furring strips?

I'm 90% done the re-framing of the room and I've put up the bubble wrap and am preparing to do the drywall. My concern is about how to attach the furring strips. Should I do them so they line up with the studs, or should I do them perpendicular and horizontal the the ground like you did? My concern is with how supportive they will be to cabinets full of glass cups and plates and such.

Gina's Answer
Dear Dave,

I'm not sure if you mean upper cabinets or lower cabinets.

Since I do not like upper cabinets, I did not have to plan for them. Planning might have meant fastening an additional piece of 2x4 lumber horizontally at the right level, betwee the studs, before spraying the insulation. I would have attached the cabinets to that lumber.

If you can somehow mark the location of your studs (or photograph it, like I did), then you can make sure that your cabinets are going to be attached to them. I don't think you should screw the cabinets to the furring strips elsewhere for the simple reason that your screws will probably puncture the vapor barrier because furring is barely 3/4 of an inch thick. Also, it's made out of cheap, knotty wood and it does split when you least expect it, and since it's covered by drywall you can't see what is happening.

I'm posting three of my photos for you:

This shows the exact location of the furring strips in my kitchen. The location of the second one under the windows had been calculated to correspond to the height where a standard cabinet would be attached (we actually went to the factory and measured it).


This shows the carpenter screwing the back of the sink cabinet to the furring strip through the drywall (we had double-checked on the position of the furring strip with a very fine nail).



This photo shows how the furring runs horizontally except where it has to go alongside a window or an electrical outlet.

I included this picture because the poly is transparent and allows you to see the vertical studs and the spray foam.



Please let me know if this information is useful to you, and don't hesitate to write again if you have any more questions.

Best regards,

Gina

From: Peter
Country: Canada
Subject: I need help with foil vapor barrier

Q: I live in north west B.C and am building a new home. I have been looking into foil vapor barrier for my interior walls, and I cannot find enough details on proper installation.

I live in a small town where the building suppliers are no help at all. If you can help me or steer me to sites that can it would save me pulling out the rest of my hair.

Thanks for your time.

Gina's Answer
Dear Peter,

My main experience is with the climate that I live in, Eastern Canada.

For folks living in other areas, I usually recommend three sources of information:

1. Their local building authority (the government department that issues building permits and has building inspectors on staff); this is usually a municipal service but it could be provincial;

2. The product manufacturer's tech support department;

3. Local building products suppliers.

I'm sorry that you've not had a good experience with the latter; however, that still leaves you two options.

Find out who's in charge of issuing building permits in your area, and talk to them. If they don't know the answer, ask them to find out! You're a taxpayer and you're entitled to that service.

If that doesn't work, you could contact the manufacturer of the product that I used. They're right here in Canada. The product is Ayr Foil and the manufacturer is Resisto. There are others but this is the one that I know.

Their website is at: http://www.resisto.ca/membrane-waterproofing/AYR-FOIL/Reflective-Insulation.aspx

You will find all kinds of data sheets (PDFs) there.

I would recommend contacting them by phone, not by email. They have a toll-free number.

Ask them what they recommend for your particular climate and construction method.

Ask for Technical Support. I called them once and they were extremely helpful.

Don't worry, I'm sure the solution is just a phone call away.

Good luck!

Gina

From: Barry
Country: Qatar
Subject: What about insulation and vapour barriers in hot humid climates?

Q: I have a concrete shear wall with bituminous paint on the outside face, 50mm of semi-rigid rockwool, 75mm void and an outer stone clad rainscreen. Does the water resistant insulation need an outer vapour barrier?

Gina's Answer
Hi Barry,

As you may have gathered from my website, I live in a cold, northern climate, and before that I lived in a semi-desert climate -- and those are the only kinds of climate with which I have a bit of personal experience.

I would suggest that you contact your local authority, i.e. the municipal department that issues building codes, has building inspectors on staff, and/or issues building permits.

Another good source of information might be a building supply store. If they recommend a product, you could then visit the product manufacturer's website and if you can't find the information right there, contact their technical department. I have had to do this a few times and have found it extremely useful.

Good luck with your project!

From: Candice
Country: United States
Subject: Thank You For Sharing

Q: Thank you so much for sharing your exquisitely well-told stories! I have spent the last 2 hours reading the whole saga, and I appreciate all of the detail that went into your decision making. I hope you are enjoying your green home with cozy surroundings and energy efficiency.

Gina's Answer
Hello Candice,

Thank you so much for your kind words.

This has been my first winter in my green home and I must say it has all been worthwhile.

This is the most comfortable, bright and efficient place I've ever lived in, and also the most economical to heat.

I still have a few details to finish, and as soon as they're done I'll be able to publish – finally – the "after" pictures. I'm really looking forward to that!

Good luck with your own projects!

From: Rajiv
Country: United States
Subject: Deconstruction Companies in the Bay Area

Q: Thank you for taking the time to write down your experiences. It is truly a valuable service. Would you know where we can go to get a list of deconstruction companies in the Bay Area (CA)?

Gina's Answer
Hi Rajiv,

Thanks for your email and your encouraging comments.

I googled "deconstruction bay area" and found several results. These are the links to two companies that I checked out and found that they seem to be what you're looking for:

http://www.mavcodeconstruction.com
http://www.vsdemolition.com

There are several more listings so you may want to do an additional search.

Good luck with your project!

From: Neil
Country: United States
Subject: Fiberglass Insulation For Crawl Space

Q: 1. Should I use unfaced R-19 fiber glass batts to insulate unventilated, no moisture crawl space?

2. Can above be installed with cleats nailed to sill and bottom one foot covered bricks to hold in place, etc.

3. Must I protect sill from termites? How?

Thank you.

Gina's Answer
Hi Neil,

Thank you for your enquiry.

To answer your Questions 1 and 2, I am attaching Natural Resources Canada's PDF publication, Keeping the Heat In, which has a section on crawl spaces on page 90 (page 92 of the PDF). Note: this is a large file and it may take a while to download.

You will note that they do not recommend fiberglass batts, and I wouldn't either. The publication was written before spray foam insulation became so common, but if you can afford it, go for that and make sure it's the high-density kind. It's the best for crawl spaces and basements, but it's expensive. My second choice would be rigid foam.

If the floor is dirt, you will have to put a vapor barrier over it, going up the sides about a foot and sealed to the insulation with acoustic sealant.

As for Question 3, are termites a problem in your area? If so, you should protect the wooden components of your house. Your local home improvement or hardware store owner can advise you about which products to use and how to apply them.

I hope that this has been helpful to you.

Good luck with your insulation project!

From: Len
Country: Canada
Subject: Do It Yourself Spray Foam For Basement

Q: Have you heard of anyone using Walltite in a do it yourself application?

Does it always have to be done through a contractor?

I want to use it on my basement walls, because it eliminates the need for the plastic vapour barrier, and provides a much better break and lessens the worry of mold or water issues. If you have, where would I get this information, and/or access.

Gina's Answer:
Hi Len,

Walltite is a product manufactured by BASF and is definitely NOT a do-it-yourself product.

In fact, none of the experts I have consulted recommend the DIY spray foam kits that are being advertised.

Before they can be licensed to apply those products, spray foam contractors get a thorough training from the manufacturers, and they have to retrain periodically.

Even when applying non-toxic products (and not all of them are non-toxic), the contractors have to use respirators attached to a separate air supply - which is something most people do not have at hand. This is because the fine mist is really a plastic and would be very dangerous if allowed to get into the lungs.

At any rate, the do-it-yourself kits are for a product that is quite different from Walltite and they do require a vapor barrier plus they cannot be applied on top of a potential moisture problem.

Believe me, I looked into every possibility before getting into this investment. I'm glad I left it up to the professionals.

Good luck with your insulation project!

From: Stephen
Country: Canada
Subject: Vapour Barriers

Q: Thanks for all this information!

We're finishing an addition we inherited from the previous owner, and are currently at the vapour barrier stage. On your site, you put the strapping over top of the barrier - doesn't that puncture it with nail holes? How do you seal this?

Thank you for your time!

Stephen

Gina's Answer:
Hi Stephen,

Thank you for your enquiry.

We just followed standard procedure, and I guess the strapping itself presses against the plastic and seals the tiny puncture holes (we used a nail gun).

I would doubt that enough moisture could escape through there anyway… also, the air spaces created between the vapor barrier and the drywall act as extra insulation, which is nice.

In the case of the reflective foil vapour barrier/insulation that we used in the kitchen, the strapping is an important component of the system since the foil requires air in order to reflect the heat back into the room. (How it does this through drywall is a mystery to me and makes me wish I had taken more Physics classes at university!)

Keep us posted on the progress of your project!

From: Brian
Country: Canada
Subject: Vapour Barrier for Eurolife Laminate Floor

Q: About to lay a Eurolife laminate foor in the foyer.

It states it needs a vapour barrier; what type should I purchase?

Gina's Answer
Hi Brian,

I looked up that flooring; it's an expensive product which requires proper installation.

I don't know what kind of vapour barrier is recommended for floors of that type in your area, what sort of foundation/basement you have under that floor, whether that foundation is insulated or not, etc. All those would have an effect on the kind of vapour barrier you should install so I would suggest you ask a local expert such as the home improvement store where you purchased it, or your contractor.

Good luck with this project!

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