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Do you have questions about something mentioned in this site? Just use the form on our Contact page.

Your question will be answered directly via email before being posted here.

Here are some of the questions that others have asked, and our answers.



From: Rajiv
Country: United States
Subject: Deconstruction Companies in the Bay Area

Q: Thank you for taking the time to write down your experiences. It is truly a valuable service. Would you know where we can go to get a list of deconstruction companies in the Bay Area (CA)?

Gina's Answer
Hi Rajiv,

Thanks for your email and your encouraging comments.

I googled "deconstruction bay area" and found several results. These are the links to three companies that I checked out and found that they seem to be what you're looking for:

http://www.mavcodeconstruction.com
http://www.bayareacustomhomes.com/deconstruction/Deconstruction.html
http://www.vsdemolition.com

There are several more listings so you may want to do an additional search.

Good luck with your project!



From: Neil
Country: United States
Subject: Fiberglass Insulation For Crawl Space

Q: 1. Should I use unfaced R-19 fiber glass batts to insulate unventilated, no moisture crawl space?

2. Can above be installed with cleats nailed to sill and bottom one foot covered bricks to hold in place, etc.

3. Must I protect sill from termites? How?

Thank you.

Gina's Answer
Hi Neil,

Thank you for your enquiry.

To answer your Questions 1 and 2, I am attaching Natural Resources Canada's PDF publication, Keeping the Heat In, which has a section on crawl spaces on page 90 (page 92 of the PDF). Note: this is a large file and it may take a while to download.

You will note that they do not recommend fiberglass batts, and I wouldn't either. The publication was written before spray foam insulation became so common, but if you can afford it, go for that and make sure it's the high-density kind. It's the best for crawl spaces and basements, but it's expensive. My second choice would be rigid foam.

If the floor is dirt, you will have to put a vapor barrier over it, going up the sides about a foot and sealed to the insulation with acoustic sealant.

As for Question 3, are termites a problem in your area? If so, you should protect the wooden components of your house. Your local home improvement or hardware store owner can advise you about which products to use and how to apply them.

I hope that this has been helpful to you.

Good luck with your insulation project!



From: Len
Country: Canada
Subject: Do It Yourself Spray Foam For Basement

Q: Have you heard of anyone using Walltite in a do it yourself application?

Does it always have to be done through a contractor?

I want to use it on my basement walls, because it eliminates the need for the plastic vapour barrier, and provides a much better break and lessens the worry of mold or water issues. If you have, where would I get this information, and/or access.

Gina's Answer:
Hi Len,

Walltite is a product manufactured by BASF and is definitely NOT a do-it-yourself product.

In fact, none of the experts I have consulted recommend the DIY spray foam kits that are being advertised.

Before they can be licensed to apply those products, spray foam contractors get a thorough training from the manufacturers, and they have to retrain periodically.

Even when applying non-toxic products (and not all of them are non-toxic), the contractors have to use respirators attached to a separate air supply - which is something most people do not have at hand. This is because the fine mist is really a plastic and would be very dangerous if allowed to get into the lungs.

At any rate, the do-it-yourself kits are for a product that is quite different from Walltite and they do require a vapor barrier plus they cannot be applied on top of a potential moisture problem.

Believe me, I looked into every possibility before getting into this investment. I'm glad I left it up to the professionals.

Good luck with your insulation project!




From: Stephen
Country: Canada
Subject: Vapour Barriers

Q: Thanks for all this information!

We're finishing an addition we inherited from the previous owner, and are currently at the vapour barrier stage. On your site, you put the strapping over top of the barrier - doesn't that puncture it with nail holes? How do you seal this?

Thank you for your time!

Stephen

Gina's Answer:
Hi Stephen,

Thank you for your enquiry.

We just followed standard procedure, and I guess the strapping itself presses against the plastic and seals the tiny puncture holes (we used a nail gun).

I would doubt that enough moisture could escape through there anyway… also, the air spaces created between the vapor barrier and the drywall act as extra insulation, which is nice.

In the case of the reflective foil vapour barrier/insulation that we used in the kitchen, the strapping is an important component of the system since the foil requires air in order to reflect the heat back into the room. (How it does this through drywall is a mystery to me and makes me wish I had taken more Physics classes at university!)

Keep us posted on the progress of your project!



From: Brian
Country: Canada
Subject: Vapour Barrier for Eurolife Laminate Floor

Q: About to lay a Eurolife laminate foor in the foyer.

It states it needs a vapour barrier; what type should I purchase?

Gina's Answer
Hi Brian,

I looked up that flooring; it's an expensive product which requires proper installation.

I don't know what kind of vapour barrier is recommended for floors of that type in your area, what sort of foundation/basement you have under that floor, whether that foundation is insulated or not, etc. All those would have an effect on the kind of vapour barrier you should install so I would suggest you ask a local expert such as the home improvement store where you purchased it, or your contractor.

Good luck with this project!



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