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My Green Home
Gets A Folding Attic Ladder




Once upon a time there was a two-storey house... which is now a one-storey house with an attic and a folding attic ladder.

The initial transformation was documented in our stair remodeling page, where we showed how we eliminated the stairs to the second floor and went as far as moving the basement stairs.

This page is about the installation of a folding attic ladder to provide easy and safe access to the attic space.

Folding attic ladder illustration
This type of attic ladder is also known as

– pull down attic ladder
– telescoping attic ladder
– retractable attic ladder

And they come in wood or aluminum.

I chose a wood attic ladder because I don't intend on using it very often (I have a saying, "If it's in storage, I don't need it!).  Also, I don't need a ladder that's going to outlive me!

Still, a plain attic hatch was not a satisfactory alternative for me.

Then there's the little matter of cost: my ladder cost less than $150. An aluminum ladder would have cost at least double that.

Folding Attic Ladder Installation, Step-by-Step

Preparing frame for folding attic ladder
The last step in the aforementioned transformation was the creation of a framed opening in the ground floor ceiling.

This was sized according to the ladder's specification sheet.



Attaching temporary supports for folding attic ladder10
Because insulation and drywall work had to be done beforehand, it was several months before we could proceed with the ladder's installation.

First, a pair of wood strips had to be screwed to either side of the opening, overlapping the edges slightly.

These had to be firmly secured, as they were meant to hold the entire weight of the ladder assembly before and during the fastening of the ladder to the frame.


Shims for folding attic ladderNailing folding attic ladder shims to ladder frame
After measuring and re-measuring, it was determined that the shims supplied with the ladder (at left in the photo, left) would not be anywhere near sufficient, so additional ones were cut from a piece of salvaged plywood.

The shims were combined to make up the excess space, and nailed in place.

Folding attic ladder is carefully lowered in place
Finally, the ladder assembly was carefully dropped in place and allowed to rest on the supports while the measurements were checked again.

Tom also carefully checked which end went where: we wanted the ladder to deploy towards the front end of the house.

Attaching the folding attic ladder to the frame
After a few adjustments in the thickness of the shims, the whole thing was declared to be a satisfactory fit and the ladder was lowered, and screwed in place on all four sides.

Then the supports were removed, and the ladder was tested.

It took a while to figure out that the springs had to be loaded before the ladder would co-operate when required to withdraw. This required quite a bit of strength!

Partially unfolded folding attic ladder
This is what the ladder looks like when first pulled down, its three sections folded neatly one on top of the other.


Fully deployed folding attic ladder
My ladder, fully deployed.

It looks just like the picture!

The ladder is a bit too long, and it will have to be trimmed at the bottom once the flooring is finished.



Closed folding attic ladder, viewed from below
This is what the ladder looks like from below when it's fully retracted.

The ladder's built-in trap door is Masonite.

Installation took about three hours.

Folding Attic Ladder Finishing And Insulation, Part I

Folding attic ladder with frame in place
Once the ceiling had been finished, we were able to proceed with the finishing so that the attic ladder would blend in as much as possible.

Besides, those gaps had to be sealed in some way, and not only for aesthetic purposes: it was important to prevent the cold attic air from entering the main floor.

The opening was framed with clean pine.

Folding attic ladders are notorious for being difficult to insulate, and as you will see multiple measures would have to be taken.

View of folding attic ladder frame caulking
A bead of caulk was squeeezed all around the frame, and smoothed in with a finger.

I used painters' caulk for this job. It's cheap and takes paint really well.

As you can see in the other picture, above, the frame had created a space between the bottom of the trap door and the edge of the frame. I saw that as a perfect opportunity for adding a bit of insulation.

Insulation for attic ladder
I opted for this type of styrofoam rigid foam insulation. The table shows an R-value of 4 for a 3/4-inch thickness.

It's not much but for this kind of problem, every little bit helps.


Folding attic ladder after rigid foam insulation was applied on exterior
I used a product called "No More Nails" as an adhesive. I had tested it first on a waste piece of the foam. I was aware that some types of caulks and adhesives cannot be used on styrofoam – apparently the chemical reaction created has the effect of dissolving the foam.

The No More Nails passed the test, and it worked very well. We taped it all around with painter's tape until it set.

Note that there's still a gap at the left, which is where the ladder's piano hinge is located. This had to be left clear to allow for the hinge movement when lowering the ladder.

That's where one of my favorite insulation products comes in.

Foam sausage for insulating gaps
Here is a picture of it. It's made out of flexible foam, it comes in different diameters and it fills a need that neither caulk, nor spray foam, nor other types of insulation can fill. (No, I'm not getting paid for this commercial!)

Plus, it's removeable, and therefore, it's reusable. In this case, a length of it will be pushed into that gap when I'm ready to seal the attic ladder trap for the winter with a plywood cover and removeable caulk. In the spring, when I unseal the attic, I will simply pull it out and put it away.

NOT SHOWN: a piece of thin and extra-light plywood (meranti board, actually), was cut to fit over the hole and act as a cover. It was test-fitted and screwed in place so that the whole thing would be ready to screw in quickly as soon as I was finished using the attic, but before the cold weather set in for good. Then it was removed and painted white, to match the rest of the ceiling.

Folding attic ladder ready to receive cover
Here you can see the screw holes, ready to receive the cover.

Removeable caulk will be used to fill all gaps, like the ones between the insulation and the frame; it will be left on until spring.

It will also be used all around the plywood cover.

Removeable caulk is another of my favorite products; I'm using it everywhere on the old windows, and it works beautifully. It really does come off easily, and without creating any damage to the paint – even if you leave it on for years.

Further insulation will be required, and I'll keep you posted on that.

Ladder Origin and Quality

I was amazed at the quality, the finishing, and the light weight of the wood - the whole assembly weighs less than 60 lbs (approximately 25 kilos).

The wood intrigued me: the pattern of the veining was unknown to me, so I phoned the manufacturer.

It turns out that they use B.C. fir, brought in from British Columbia (and sometimes from Oregon – depending on the strength of the Canadian dollar, I presume).

Another reason that the wood looks so good is that by law it must be entirely free of knots, which makes perfect sense from a safety point of view.

Folding attic ladder label
The label indicates clearly that this folding attic ladder is classified by the Canadian Standards Association as Grade III – domestic, household quality – and has amaximum load capacity of 200 lbs (90 kilos). (I guess I'll have to watch my weight!)

I'm pleased that something made in Canada – in Village Huron, near Quebec City, to be precise – is so reasonably priced.

It gives one hope that manufacturing is still alive and well, and competitive, in Canada. In fact, I found other Canadian attic ladder manufacturers on the Web.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing a folding attic ladder isn't rocket science. But it does require two strong people and a fair amount of time, especially if you have to deal with the opening first. This opening was planned when we removed the stairs and moved the basement stairs to a new location, at the very beginning of this project.

Make sure the ladder is upstairs and unpacked before you start. Get out the instructions and study them!

If your ladder is going to get a lot of use, I would recommend getting one with a higher rating if it's wood. Better yet, get an aluminum one.

The rating determines the maximum load capacity, so pay attention to that. To calculate the load, you have to add up the person's weight PLUS the weight of whatever they're carrying.

So, you see, for most people, a 200-lb (90-kilo) ladder would not be adequate. It's pure luck that I'm not too heavy as I didn't see that label till the ladder was installed!

Folding attic ladders come in different lengths, so be sure, also, to order the right length by measuring the distance between the floor and the ceiling.

Home Depot carries an extensive selection of these, both in store and on their website.

COMING SOON: More insulation, plus covering and sealing the attic ladder hatch for the winter.

GREEN NOTES

This folding attic ladder would qualify as quite green in my book if only the wood didn't have to be brought in from across the continent.

I don't think the manufacturer has any choice: Quebec is situated in a major forestry area and if the right wood – combining strength and light weight – were available locally, I'm sure they would use it.

The trap door is Masonite, which is quite environmentally friendly.

Until it's tight-fitting and well insulated, it could be a direct route for the heated air to escape, so that's something to watch out for.



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